《宅人食堂》第三季跟着一条鳜鱼探寻徽州饮食与文化
时间：2021-01-11 15:25:42阅读：2124次来源：策驰影院
说起鳜鱼的名声大噪，还得拜那句“桃花流水鳜鱼肥”所赐，不然的话，不知道还有多少人仍在叫它jue鱼。鳜鱼肉质在三月最为鲜美，所以在古今文人食客的辞令中，它常和三月桃花作伴。万点桃花半尺鱼般的赞美，让鳜鱼显得无比可爱。
宋人罗愿的《尔雅翼》中还记有一种传说：如果渔翁钓到一条鳜的雄鱼，数条雌鱼都会舍身来救，"曳而不舍"，因此，一条甚至能牵起十多条。听起来倒是一种重情义之鱼。
可是为人所不知的是，其实鳜鱼生性凶猛，并不可爱，黄身有黑斑，厚皮紧肉，夏天钻在石缝里。据说，它是鱼类中惟一像牛羊，"有肚能嚼"的，所以吃小鱼。是一种靠猎食其他鱼虾生存的肉食性鱼类。这么说来，本质上属于暗黑系的鳜鱼，可是一点儿都不小清新，徽菜里臭鳜鱼的做法，倒是和它的画风最能搭到一起。
深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季来到了徽菜的发源地徽州。在徽州，无论如何也绕不开的一道菜就是臭鳜鱼。臭鳜鱼又名窖香鳜鱼，是徽州传统名菜。平常菜肴，总要在舌头走上一遭才能留下印象。但臭鳜鱼不同，在入口甚至入眼之前，气味就已牢牢抓住食客的感官。其实闻着臭吃着香的重口味菜肴，在中国这片神奇的土地上并不少见，臭豆腐、折耳根、臭苋菅哪一个拿出来都可以说是让人爱恨交加。可是能靠着“臭”，成为菜系名角登堂入室的，臭鳜鱼其实还真算得上是个异数。
“搞臭”这条鲜肥鳜鱼，要从七八天前就开始。将粗粒海盐均匀撒入鱼腹和鱼鳃，用手指将海盐在鱼背及鱼身来回涂抹至冒汗状，使鱼肉可以完全吸收盐分，放入木桶，撒上花椒等小料予以调味，以青石压住封存，等鲜味在时光的催化下酿出臭气，臭鳜鱼，就功成一半了。
臭鳜鱼成为徽系名菜两百多年，一脉相承地臭着，没多大变化，不像很多菜品，在时光的长河里为了迎合八方食客，改良出很多版本。而在这一点上，臭鳜鱼可以说是整个徽菜菜系的缩影。
《宅人食堂》中的黄山双石和毛峰里脊，也同样都体现着徽菜的偏执与坚持。从食材到做法，都是古法，一板一眼，没有折衷，也没有改良，石耳和石鸡都取自黄山，毛峰采自徽地，连茶香入菜的奇思妙想也闪烁着徽商智慧。
徽菜的形成与江南古徽州独特的地理环境、人文环境、饮食习俗密切相关。绿树丛荫、沟壑纵横、气候宜人的徽州自然环境，为徽菜提供了取之不尽，用之不竭的徽菜原料。得天独厚的条件成为徽菜发展的有力物质保障。同时徽州名目繁多的风俗礼仪、时节活动，也有力地促进了徽菜的形成和发展。这些都给了徽菜坚持自己的底气与自信。香就香，臭就臭，都是徽地独有的味道，别的地方你还真吃不到。
也许，要想在中国这片美食如云的土地上站稳跟脚，光靠一个好吃还真不行，总得有点儿自己的特别与小性子。深圳卫视每周日晚21:00，《宅人食堂3》与你相约。
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